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This was fantastic!!! I have a million questions and can’t wait to follow more of your work.

I've been watching a lot of CNC videos and this is the first time I've run across the terms climb and conventional milling. Climb milling looks like the equivalent of running something the wrong way on a table router by hand. It looks like it would work for CNC because of the controlled feed rate. Can this be set on Easel?

Liked the look of Easel but it an online app and too $$$ for me for just a hobby. Finding a Standalone program that is not restrictive or cheap is almost impossible. Lightburn is great for Laser work, and so hoping they release a cnc package soon.

Should have stained the oak to make the pink more obvious.

Great video, just what I needed, thank you! New sub

Excellent teaching Brother. Thank You!

What's the difference between Add and Merge Curves?

Do you ever do videos with the Genmitsu brand, specifically the 4040 pro?

Hi! Thank you for the video! Help me a lot! I have a question, it's possible use Fusion360 with a Genmitsu 3018 prover V2? Its possible add this machine to Fusion360? Thank you

Have you tried the extension Gcodetools? I used it for a while until I could scrape up the dough for Vectric software. Funny that I still use Inkscape to do any vector/node work. It's just more comprehensive in what it can do. But the V Carving toolpaths are a Vectric task. Thanks for making the video.

got the deros, the trottle broke down after 15 Minutes of use on drywall...lol sent it back and am waiting on the festool to arrive

Glad you mentioned my number one issue with this saw, which I love, is that front bar should absolutely be one piece. Especially since when making cuts a few inches wide and below the T square puts pressure one both pieces and can cause some major inaccuracies

Great review

I bought the Mirka Ceros in 2012 which had a Problem in 2015 , the repair was quite expensive but I am still using the sander to this day. During that time I bought a festool rotex and a ETS ec 150 3 I thought the ets was a useless sander and sold it in 2021.

Regarding the dust collection it seems this saw is very similar to the record power sabre 350 (I found only minor differences). So It would be possible (if you do not use the tilt feature of your table that often) to add a dust extractor just below the table, like the one from Kleinholz. He has a yt-video (it is in german) that illustrates the issue and its sollution. Just google for 'kleinholz sabre 350 bundle"

Crazy to spend $2,000 for a tool and find out things you don't like about it. Maybe I should start using my cheap tabletop bandsaw before spending thousands of dollars. If it's hollow, I bet the dust comes down the back support that goes all the way from the top to the bottom. The blade probably carries it down to the bottom like an elevator.

What kind of epoxy do you use?

Do you cut board in vertical or horizontal position , thank you ? Jack in Idaho

is this also compatible with a M2.Nano board Laser?

using Pythagoras theorem is the best way to do it. Use 3 pieces of tape each with an X. Use a pointed bit in the collet. Move the CNC back to the rear left. Put a the tape with the X directly under the point. Then move the CNC X distance towards the front, put tape there. And finally move it X distance to the right and put tape there. Then measure the distance from point a to c. You'll need to figure out what units you want to use but lets say you were using 1 unit per 200mm A = 0 B = 800mm from 0 C = 600mm from B Then the distance from A to C should be 1000mm, if its less then you need to bright the right side forward if its more you need to push the right side back.

This was so helpful! Thank you! It was ust what I needed; a great foundation to start creating stickers.

Loved the thorough explanation. Awesome job!

I'd be interested in your follow-up testing. I'm new to this and using a Shaper Origin but plan to get a Shapeoko 5 with a 4x4 surface. I've been testing on pine, sealed the cutouts with 2 coats of shellac and still get bleeding in a few areas. I have not tried more than 2 coats or epoxy. Which epoxy

Tool path in fusion 360 is difficult then of aspire or esal carbide etc right?

Just like Arduino code , can we copy past someone else g code on my cnc machine if yes where can we find?

"The Clarks"... GREAT band!!

13:29 what's this tool use for " outliner "

Is Carbide totally free cad cam

should have something in the start of the video, saying you need to PAY in order to save the Gcode file.

Try total boat penetrating epoxy thinned for the fine details. Let it cure over night.

I Wanna know, if freecad and fusion 360 be use as 2.5D cad cam g code generator? Can you teach

Can we generate g code in unlike aspire

Newbie epoxy pourer here. Thank you for a very informative video. I evolved into epoxy after several inlays. I used select pine to receive the inlay. Experimenting with sealers, I discovered that General Finishes WB Poly did best at sealing and NOT darkening the wood. Also, pleasantly surprised that after forgetting to brush some epoxy to seal the surrounding area of my pour, I had no bleeding. I must mention I was super careful no to overpour and needed no sanding. I can provide a picture if you would like.

The door on the lower storage cabinet hsa a very small gap that can be sead with thin foam tap. Also the lower bandsaw door needs to be sealed at the top edge which will make less saw dust to collect at the bottom. These are the things I did to my Rikon 10-326.

Hi I've just started with the 3018 cnc but I've been having issues with the cutting bit sometimes just carving across other toolpaths any idea what I can do to remedy this I'm using easel at the moment

Super, dziękuję!

Totally agree with your "experimental" comments. Doing a first-time prototype always rakes 3 to 5 times longer and invariably involves redesign and wasted material. It's anxiety inducing and frustrating. I'm on day 3 and half way thru the Casey build. So far so good using just his video. I'm just using salvaged 1/2" BB and the hardware I've had for 20+ years. I'm doing the rear fence now and have run out of pieces long enough so I may end up milling a hardwood piece which would be easy to get flat. I am thinking of adding a replaceable sacrificial insert. Also, I first tried the plastic runner, but it's too loose in the miter slot and too flexy like you said. So I milled a hardwood piece that the CA glue works with, plus I have some teflon tape I could use to make the bottom more slick if need be. I slotted for the Tee track using a dado stack in the table saw for a perfectly clean fitting groove. I always suffer from the router fence moving on me for some reason, so I avoid it. I think using the two cut method is as effective as the 5-cut method - see Tom McLaughlin at Epic Woodworking for a detailed explanation. It is essentially the same as the 5-cut, but simpler and the math is trivial. I'm not there yet, but it has worked in the past. I too was drawn to the slick red on black and stylish sweep cuts of Casey's design. It sure is pretty. But I'm on a zero-cost budget with materials I have on hand. However, I did have to buy some CA glue for over $20 for the small size!! Insane! Otherwise I've kept the cost to zero by using what I have in the shop. Thanks for your advice and glad your jig turned out in the end. Persistence pays off.

Thanks you! I kept searching for this exact topic for my final college project. My lecturer kept saying he's worried that the resin would melt.

I wonder why you didn't use the center option instead of dragging object?

My man!

The Pro version has an inlay tool. Great videa though.

Did you like that machine file for fusion 360? I can't seem to find it for the woodworker version. I found the smaller one, but the one I need.

What brand and type of epoxy to use. Thanks

Sanding sealer and Shellac are meant to have bleed. Sanding sealer and shellac are blotch control basically. they let color in but control blotchiness. so you would need a couple coats to prevent the color bleed.

Are the brackets for the fences plastic or metal ?

I have the Mirka sander (I wanted it because it was lighter and lower profile). I purchased a Festool dust extractor (Midi) though, because the Mirka came in just the one size--and was considerably more expensive. I snap my Mirka systainer on top of the Midi. Works well.

Good review. Can't imagine sanding, then routing, then straight to finishing, always did a prep sand before a finish anyway. Did you try just rubbing some paste wax into your table to mitigate the marks?

Thanks so much for taking us through your whole process, not successes and all! Really helpful for a beginner.

a second test would be interesting, I have used Spray lacquer with some success, perhaps you could incorporate that also

I actually had the idea to make something like this and for raising/lowering the router i was thinking i could make the router base designed similar to a CNC. Put the router on a base and connect that base to a ball screw and have the ball screw be the part that connecte to the rails. With a 4mm pitch it would raise/lower 1/8" at a time per full turn of the ball screw. I want to use this as a drill press, jointer, and flattening sled etc so the quick adjustment would be helpful. But i won't know how accurate or stable it is until i build it and try haha